XVIII
The French are certainly misunderstood:вБ†вЄЇвБ†but whether the fault is theirs, in not sufficiently explaining themselves; or speaking with that exact limitation and precision which one would expect on a point of such importance, and which, moreover, is so likely to be contested by usвБ†вЄЇвБ†or whether the fault may not be altogether on our side, in not understanding their language always so critically as to know вАЬwhat they would be atвАЭвБ†вЄЇвБ†I shall not decide; but вАЩtis evident to me, when they affirm, вАЬThat they who have seen Paris, have seen everything,вАЭ they must mean to speak of those who have seen it by daylight.
As for candlelightвБ†вАФI give it upвБ†вЄЇвБ†I have said before, there was no depending upon itвБ†вАФand I repeat it again; but not because the lights and shades are too sharpвБ†вАФor the tints confoundedвБ†вАФor that there is neither beauty or keeping, etcвБ†вАКвБ†вА¶ for thatвАЩs not truthвБ†вАФbut it is an uncertain light in this respect, That in all the five hundred grand H√іtels, which they number up to you in ParisвБ†вАФand the five hundred good things, at a modest computation (for вАЩtis only allowing one good thing to a H√іtel), which by candlelight are best to be seen, felt, heard, and understood (which, by the by, is a quotation from Lilly)вБ†вЄЇвБ†the devil a one of us out of fifty, can get our heads fairly thrust in amongst them.
This is no part of the French computation: вАЩtis simply this,
That by the last survey taken in the year one thousand seven hundred and sixteen, since which time there have been considerable argumentations, Paris doth contain nine hundred streets; (viz.)
In the quarter called the CityвБ†вАФthere are fifty-three streets.
In St. James of the Shambles, fifty-five streets.
In St. Oportune, thirty-four streets.
In the quarter of the Louvre, twenty-five streets.
In the Palace Royal, or St. Honorius, forty-nine streets.
In Mont. Martyr, forty-one streets.
In St. Eustace, twenty-nine streets.
In the Halles, twenty-seven streets.
In St. Dennis, fifty-five streets.
In St. Martin, fifty-four streets.
In St. Paul, or the Mortellerie, twenty-seven streets.
The Greve, thirty-eight streets.
In St. Avoy, or the Verrerie, nineteen streets.
In the Marais, or the Temple, fifty-two streets.
In St.¬†AntonyвАЩs, sixty-eight streets.
In the Place Maubert, eighty-one streets.
In St. Bennet, sixty streets.
In St. Andrews de Arcs, fifty-one streets.
In the quarter of the Luxembourg, sixty-two streets.
And in that of St.¬†Germain, fifty-five streets, into any of which you may walk; and that when you have seen them with all that belongs to them, fairly by daylightвБ†вАФtheir gates, their bridges, their squares, their statues - - - and have crusaded it moreover, through all their parish-churches, by no means omitting St.¬†Roche and Sulpice - - - and to crown all, have taken a walk to the four palaces, which you may see, either with or without the statues and pictures, just as you chooseвБ†вАФ
вЄЇвБ†Then you will have seenвБ†вЄЇвБ†
вЄЇвБ†but, вАЩtis what no one needeth to tell you, for you will read of it yourself upon the portico of the Louvre, in these words,
Earth no such folks!вБ†вАФNo folks eвАЩer such a town
As Paris is!вБ†вАФSing, derry, derry, down.
The French have a gay way of treating everything that is Great; and that is all can be said upon it.